The Drunk and Disorderly


In the myriad of creative and unusual streamer names comes the Drunk and Disorderly.  If you’ve seen the action of this fly under water and compare that to the local bar district on the weekend, you’ll get it.

The complex nuances of this fly all add up to the action it was created for.  Being a former “gear only” bass fishing guy I can speak to its likeness to a jerk bait but in order to get that same action, everything needs to be precise.

I start my thread on the hook where I want to end with the rabbit zonker strip so I know not to rush the head.  Taking a generous amount of flashabou, that’s tied in just as the straight shank begins to bend.  In order to spread the tail out, build a dam of thread in the rear of the fly.  Trim the flashabou tail that’s about 2 1/2″ long from the shank and end with the thread at the tie-in point.

Tie in the polar chenille and palmer it forward.  The thread is purposely left two zonker strip-widths from the original thread limit before capturing the chenille and make a few securing wraps rearward.

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Making two complete turns of zonker strip, capture it, trim the excess, and make a tight head before whip finishing twice.

 

 

Assembling the tails to articulated streamers are relatively easy.  The Beadelon and beads are strung through the eye of the hook and they are held vertically.  While holding the assembly, I give the hook a quick tug downward which does two things; it shapes the wire to the hook eye and allows the beads to slide down to a natural point.  No other adjustments are needed.

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After the leading hook is in the vice, I start the thread where I want the collar of the fly to begin before making wraps rearward.  The tail assembly should sit nearly parallel to the hook shank with the front bead just making contact with the bend of the hook.  Holding this assembly while tying it in will assure everything stays where you want it.  The beadelon should be stacked on top of each other to ensure the wire loop is vertical.

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Just ahead of the front bead, tie in some more flashabou and time it off to the length of the rear polar chenille.  Then, tie in another length of zonker strip and make two complete wraps before tying it off and trimming the excess.

Hold the rattle directly on top of the hook shank and make medium-tension wraps at first while gradually snugging down and end with two wraps around the base of thread before moving the thread between the rattle and zonker.  Tie in more polar chenille on the shank and palmer it just ahead of the rattle before capturing it and trimming the excess.

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Select two matching mallard flank feathers and measure them so the tips extend just into the rear zonker strip wraps.  Strip off the excess fibers from the flank and tie them on to the shank.  They should be oriented in a slight “inverted V”.

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Next comes another layer of flashabou that is tied in ahead of the chenille and should be trimmed to the length of the front hook.

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A second wrapping of zonker strip should be next.  This time, a more natural colored zonker strip is selected to blend in with the collar and head of the fly.  This rabbit strip is wrapped around itself once but stroke the fibers rearward so a nice, neat fur collar is formed.  Capture the zonker and trim the excess.

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Cut a generous portion of deer hair.  Clean and stack the hair before removing it from the stacker.  You can see how much the deer hair and zonker are alike.  Align the hair so it blends in with the rabbit strip.  Hold the deer hair in the left hand and make one loose, medium, and tight wrap while allowing the butt ends to flair.  The consecutive steps should continue with packing and spinning the hair to just behind the hook eye.  Once behind the eye, whip finish and “fluff” the deer hair.

Taking a razor blade, make a flush cut on the underside of the fly.  One of the biggest mistakes is to try to shape the head of the fly with the first few cuts.  Instead, make a rough estimate of the size and shape of the head.  After the bottom of the fly, the top and sides are then cut.  It’s also important to remember that you can always trim the head down after its left too large but you can’t add more back to it.  Everyone’s head shape will be different but in order for the fly to have the correct action, keep in mind it has to resemble a thin wedge or door stop since the entire collar/head of the fly is essentially a lip on a crankbait.

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Once the shape is complete, use glue to secure two eyes to the side of the fly.  Then add a nice, thin coating of UV resin to the fly and cure it for a few minutes.

Whether it’s trout, steelhead, bass, or anything else that eats a jerkbait, this is the fly you’ll want to tie on when the conditions call for it.

 

Materials Used

Thread: GSP 100 – White

Front Hook: Ahrex TP650 – Size 3/0

Rear Hook: Gamakatsu B10S – Size 4

Articulation Wire: Beadelon 49 strand

Beads: 2 x 6mm beads

Tail/Flash: Flashabou Holographic

Body Segments: UV Polar Chenille

Secondary Hair Collars: Zonker strips

Primary Head Collar: Deer hair

Head: Spun deer hair

Other: 4mm Rattle

Eyes: Living Eyes 5mm

UV Resin: Loon Thin UV Clear

Categories: Blog, Commercial Flies, Fly TyingTags: , , , , ,

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